Public spaces have become platforms for the invention and display of
self-identity, especially in the affluent West where the restaurant,
from local café to Michelin-starred establishment, deftly stages these
performances. In this follow-up to her classic Dining Out: A Sociology
of Modern Manners, Joanne Finkelstein takes a fragment of social
life--restaurant dining--and uses it to examine the dramatic effect our
public behavior and social habits have on our private desires and sense
of identity.
In Fashioning Appetite, the restaurant becomes a liminal space in
which public and private boundaries are constantly renegotiated, where
our personal celebrations and seductions are conducted within full view
of the next table, and where eating alone has become a perilous social
minefield. When food is fetishized and identity becomes a capitalist
commodity, the experience of the restaurant transforms appetite into
both a pleasure and a torment in which being satisfied with one's meal
is linked to being satisfied with oneself. Applying new research in
emotional capitalism to popular culture's pervasive images of
conspicuous consumption, Finkelstein builds a cultural portrait in which
every forkful is weighted with meaning.