This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory
for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is
self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are
presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to
practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid
mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the
governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed
and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are
explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and
their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and
the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water
particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of
wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory
results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter
concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes
extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a
description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little
additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.