When it comes to training for climbing, there is an overwhelming amount
of information out there. In The Science of Climbing Training, top
Spanish climbing coach Sergio Consuegra has analysed our sporting
needs from the perspective of exercise and sports science to provide an
evidence-based approach to training for climbing. It is designed to
help us improve climbing performance, whether we're taking the next step
in our training as we work towards a project, or if we're a coach
looking to optimise our athletes' training. It doesn't contain any
'magic' training methods, because there are none - although you might be
shocked by the science behind some popular methods.
The first part explains what training is and how different training
methods are governed by the physiological and biomechanical processes
that occur in the body. The second part looks at how to improve specific
needs (such as finger strength and forearm muscle endurance) and general
needs (such as basic physical conditioning, pulling strength, pushing
strength, strength training for injury prevention) for the different
demands and types of climbing and bouldering. The third and final part
suggests the best ways to fit it all together. It looks at adjusting
training volume and intensity, and tapering to encourage
supercompensation, all to help us achieve improved performance, whether
it's a breaking into a higher grade, ticking that long-standing project
or climbing a dream route.
