From tissue-fitting pioneers Pati Palmer and Marta Alto comes a new book
whose title says it all: The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting:
Sew Great Clothes for Every Body! Fit Any Fashion Pattern. It's been 20
years since their last book about fitting and altering sewing patterns,
Fit for Real People. For Palmer and Alto, that means 20 more years of
hands-on learning and experience from fitting more "real people" of all
shapes and sizes from around the globe. Having long ago dispensed with
tedious measuring or making a muslin to check the fit of a sewing
pattern, the authors have mastered the process of tissue-fitting. This
means simply "trying on" the pattern's tissue pieces to check
systematically for where to alter the pattern for a custom fit. The
pattern pieces themselves become the "muslin." "Systematically" means
following the tissue-fitting sequence they've developed and refined.
It's a no-guess order of fitting that ensures success. The book
reinforces this sequence since the alteration chapters themselves are
ordered in the same sequence. Readers are instructed to start with
length and width, move on to the back, check the neck and shoulders, all
before even considering how the pattern fits in the bust. As they work
through the pattern, sewers will alter the tissue and try on again until
the tissue fits well. The book then instructs how to pin-fit the fabric
for a final tweaking before sewing. The book explains all facets of
pattern fitting and alteration to give readers the background and
guidance they need to achieve a custom fit on any pattern from any
company.
Instructions include:
- Take just one measurement to determine the right pattern size to buy.
Find out what to do if you are between sizes or a different size top and
bottom.
- Make a "body map" with a close-fitting dress pattern to see how you
differ from the "standard" on which sewing patterns are based. - Learn
from "real people" examples of a variety of bodies and their individual
alterations.
- Use the book's new "wrinkle dictionary" to identify a needed pattern
alteration. "Wrinkles point to the problem," say the authors, and now
you can look up the page reference for a solution.
- See how age can affect body shape, from preteen to octogenarian.
- Take note of the latest sewing techniques for garment details that
affect fit, such as darts, zippers and sleeves, for enhancing the look
of a well-fitted garment.
- Learn basic skills for designing or redesigning for myriad variations
using the same pattern. Throughout the book, step-by step instructions
are accompanied by full-color photography and a new style of technical
art that is extremely clear. Short captions explain each illustration.
As a bonus, the authors detail the evolution of ready-to-wear and
pattern sizing over the past century, along with their own history in
pioneering the art and practice of tissue-fitting.
