'It was Kongur that dominated everything, and was the focus of our gaze
and aspirations.'
So thought Chris Bonington upon the Chinese Mountaineering
Association's decision to open many of Tibet and China's mountains to
foreigners in the 1980s. Not only did this mean that Kongur, China's
7,719-metre peak, was available to climb, but that those choosing to do
so would be among the first to set foot there. It was an opportunity too
good to miss.
For the planned alpine-style ascent of this daunting peak, Bonington
assembled a formidable team, including Peter Boardman, Joe
Tasker, Al Rouse and expedition leader Michael Ward. Their
reconnaissance and 1981 expedition brought opportunity for discovery and
obstacles in equal measure: they were able to explore areas that had
eluded westerners since Eric Shipton's role as British Consul General in
Kashgar in the 1940s; but appalling weather, unplanned bivouacs and
tensions characterised their quest for the ever-elusive route to the
summit.
Featuring diary extracts and recollections from each team member, this
account not only captures the gripping detail of the ascent attempts,
but also the ebb and flow of the relationships between the remarkable
mountaineers involved. Add to this the pioneering medical work on
high-altitude illnesses conducted by the four-man medical team, and the
result is a book which captures a unique moment in mountaineering
history.
Written with the cheer and eloquence typical of Chris Bonington,
Kongur captures the essence of adventure and exploration that
brings readers back to his books time and time again.
