'We have two cuisines in France, that of the north and that of the
south', boldly stated the first cookbook directly concerned with
southern French cuisine in 1830. This book investigates the reasons for
and background to these differences, specifically in Provence. In the
absence of cookbooks for the region in the 18th century, it uses
innovative methodologies relying on a range of hitherto unexplored
primary resources, ranging from household accounts and manuscript
recipes to local newspapers and gardening manuals that focus on the
actuality of the 18th century Provençal table.
The sources emphasise the essentially seasonal and local nature of
eating in Provence at this time. In many ways eating habits echoed
generalised French patterns, according to class, but at the same time
the use of particular foods and culinary practices testified to a
distinctive Provençal food culture, partly related to geographic and
climatic differences but also to cultural influences. This food culture
represented the foundation for the Provençal cuisine which was
recognised and codified in the early 19th century.
From a diverse archive of documents has emerged new evidence for the
cultivation and consumption of potatoes and tomatoes in Provence and for
the origins and evolution of emblematic dishes such as bourride,
bouillabaisse and brandade. In linking the coming-of-age of Provençal
cuisine to post-Revolutionary culture, in particular the success of
restaurants and the flourishing of gastronomic discourse, this book
offers a new understanding of the development and evolution of regional
cuisines.
